Kelantan revisited

It has been two years since I left Kelantan. To say the least, it has been a memorable 4 and half year in Kota Bharu and Kubang Kerian area.

We had been contemplating and finding reasons to go back to Kelantan. Just visiting the famed Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah does not justify as our cause. To get our keropok lekor and keropok segera stocks does not qualify too. Finally, we gave ourselves the reasons to go when we were invited to attend a wedding of an extended family member in Tanah Merah. We felt a sense of relief.

We stayed in Perdana Hotel, which was prebooked online. Like a child with his childhood friends, Perdana Hotel has grown together with Kota Bharu. The hotel has seen the ups and downs of the town - being in the downs for several years - before undergoing renovation in the last few years to emerge as a beautiful butterfly. Without hesitating, my next stay in KB would be Perdana Hotel. 

Kota Bharu is similar. The town is not the same as the Kota Bharu that I know of in 2007. Obviously, the new Kota Bharu is the real "New Town". Rubbish and overfilled bins are not too many to be seen any more in the main town. I used to remember rubbish overflowing the bins greeting me in the evenings as I was returning to my home in Panji. Not anymore. The bins are still there, but it was not overflowing. The roads were resurfaced. Muddy shoulder of the roads that collects the monsoon rains is a thing of the past.

The completed flyover that connects Kota Bharu and Pasir Mas is ready. The traffic jams caused by the construction is gone. Traffic is smooth in front of KB Mall, the road to Wakaf Che Yeh and into Tesco KB.

Though my anxiety has disappeared with the disappearance of the gridlock that usually strangles the Sultan Yahya Petra road, there are still some pockets of brake-slamming-points in the town itself. This may be overwhelming for the first time drivers in Kelantan, enough to raise a point or two in the blood pressure gauge. But, for locals and localised outsiders, it is normal. You can expect a motorist to stop unexpectedly at the shoulder of a straight road - usually at famous eating points and banks - just be aware of this and slowly signal your way out to get to your destinations. Please do as the Kelantanese do - do not honk! If you honk, it is a tell-tale sign that you are not a local. Either way, folks are just as quaint as they are - forgiving you as the unknowing outsider or forgiving you as it is not your fault to stop suddenly at the roadside looking for food or cashing out some pitih.

Food - among other things - is what Kelantan is rich for. For me, the  Tom Yam here is among the best in Malaysia. I am not familiar with Kedah, but I am sure that the Tom Yams of Kedah is among the best in the region too. We owe this to the Siamese ties established in the northern states of West Malaysia with the neighbouring south Thailand. The Tom Yams in Sri Chieng Mai and Four Seasons restaurant is still a hot item and will remain to be.

Wakaf Che Yeh too has seen changes. If you have time to shop for bargain priced contemporary Batik designs, here is the place to be. The best part is, the market is all surfaced with tarmac, making walking a brisk and pushing the baby's stroller effortless. Surely, rainy season is not a hindrance. If you still prefer the modern air conditioned building, Bazar Buluh Kubu is a better choice. But, most of the items here are "executively" priced. Otherwise, the preferred option for most people is the Pasar Siti Khadijah, which is just next to the Bazar Buluh Kubu.

Among the food that I would look for in Kelantan is the Keropok Lekor and Sata. I would not think of another place to look for them except in Pasir Puteh - Besut border (Kelantan - Terengganu border). You know that you are in the "keropok lekor zone" when you keep seeing the "Keropok lekor" signs on buildings along the stretch of roads. Again, it would be tormenting for first timers to pick and choose the keropok lekor stall to stop at. My pick - the stall right at the border of Pasir Putih - Besut. Choose the one that looks like a modern looking store with racks of fish products. The lekor processing area, where the women folk tirelessly rolls the fish paste  to make keropok lekor is visible at the side of the building. The lekor here taste fresh with more fish than flour and is very soft.

Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to bring the lekor home without risking it to spoil in room temperature. Vacuum packed keropok lekor may be found in one of the many stalls. I know for sure, in Kuala Terengganu, you can request for your keropok lekor to be vacuumed packed.

For sata, I would prefer the wooden hut immediately before the bridge at Kuala Besut, if you are coming from the Kelantan side. You can see heaps of skewered Sata on the grill, ready to be barbequed. This great local finger food normally cost One Ringgit for three pieces.

Obviously, Kota Bharu and Kelantan has seen changes over the years. For me it is one of the places that will entice you to come repeatedly to rediscover with a different perspective.